I hadn’t been to Spago since the remodel and menu revamp over a year ago. The restaurant is much darker with a modernistic feel and much more intimate than the previous space. The waitstaff is still highly trained and very approachable with great knowledge of food and wine.
Before our dinner began, an amuse bouche of Carrot Ginger Soup arrived to warm our palates and get us ready for the meal. And the bread selection of housemade mini baguettes, multi-seed loaf, olive rolls and cranberry nut bread could make for a meal on its own.
As for the menu, well that speaks for itself, sectioned into four parts starting with “One” – small plates – which make one salivate before sampled. The Chestnut Soup with Hen of the Woods Mushrooms sounded divine, but the Fuyu Persimmon, Burrata and Proscuitto di Parma with Basil Cavier and Citrus was the right choice. The perfectly ripe fruit paired nicely with the salty ham and hint of basil. The citrus spheres when broken, had a nice creamy tang and complimented the persimmon.
“Two” – was focused on Pasta that were all handmade. The Garganelli Pasta Verdi with Spicy “Nduja Sausage” and Chanterelle Mushrooms was hand formed and you could taste it with every bite. The sauce was slightly creamy and not too hot, but warm and comforting.
Section “Three” had everything from Monkfish Osso Bucco to Grilled Veal Chop, but the Whole Roasted Cantonese Duck with Steamed Bao Buns and Fruit Compote was definitely the direction to take. The Duck was presented to our table first before sliced and the entire bird had a rich auburn color with a smokey smell.
The fluffy Bao Buns, Pickled Veggies and Fruit Compote added texture and saltiness to the Asian Duck Sandwiches which we made with the succulent meat.
And if you just wanted to dine on the Crispy Duck alone — the skin was super crispy on top of tender duck meat with almost all the fat rendered out ..so perfectly done.
As for dessert — just too full (this time) after the duck, but I hear the new Pastry Chef who replaced Sherry Yard is from Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago. Her Baba au Rhum is supposed to be out of this world….definitely next time.
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